Wine Bottling Process

updated: 07/26/2023

In a recent discussion with a friend, we discussed errors during bottling, such as failing to add sorbate to a backsweetened wine. This spurred me to record what I do when bottling.

The following is a short checklist, which is followed by a detailed description of what I generally do at bottling time.

Note: Bottling actually starts before starting the batch of wine. I strongly urge folks to figure out how many bottles they will need at bottling time, and collect them BEFORE starting the batch. Failure to do so can produce a last minute panic. Also note that “collecting” bottles doesn’t mean just acquiring them. Fully clean the bottles as acquired, as it makes the least favorite part of winemaking a lot less tedious, and again, avoids that last minute panic.

The short checklist:

• Assemble Necessary Hardware
• Assemble Consumables
• Assemble Backsweetening Items (optional)
• Sanitize Equipment
• Sanitize Work Surfaces
• Rack the Main Batch
• Rack Any Additional Containers
• Add Glycerin (optional)
• Add K-meta
• Backsweetening (optional)
• Bottling
• Post Bottling

Each of the above is described in detail:

Assemble Necessary Hardware

Bottling starts with assembling all items that will be required for the process. Having everything ready saves time and hassle later, or worse, panic when a necessary item cannot be located.

• hydrometer (plus test jar)
• bottling bucket (primary fermenter)
• racking cane, racking tubing, and/or pump
• bottling cane AKA filler tube
• clean bottles
• corker

Assemble Consumables

• K-meta (potassium metabisulfite) solution (or other sanitizing solution)
• dry K-meta
• corks
• glycerin (optional)

Assemble Items Backsweetening (optional)

• sorbate
• sugar

Sanitize Equipment

I have a 2 gallon food grade plastic bucket — all small items go into it and are splashed with K-meta solution. Other sanitizers can be used, including Star San, but for brevity I will just say “K-meta solution”.

K-meta solution is racked through all tubing and splashed on the inside walls of all containers.

Note: Visually inspect all hardware for dirt or debris before sanitizing. All equipment is cleaned immediately after usage, and is put way clean and dry. If it’s been setting more than a few months, I may rinse it before sanitizing if there is any visible dust.

Note on sanitizing: We do NOT sterilize the equipment. Sterilization is the removal of 100% of any microbial life. That requires an autoclave or similar tool. Sanitizing is reducing the population of microbial life to below a threshold where it is not a danger to the wine. Proper cleaning and splashing with K-meta solution accomplishes this.

K-meta requires 5 to 10 minutes to work, and by the time I’m done with preparation, at least 10 minutes have passed.

Sanitize Work Surfaces

I wet a clean paper towel with K-meta solution and wipe all work surfaces. I have a dedicated 8′ long counter with a double stainless steel sink, and I wipe everything.

Part of my process is lining up corks on the counter, and it’s clean and sanitized. The counter is washed every time I do anything wine-related, and this is just extra insurance.

Rack the Main Batch

I always rack from the secondary storage into a primary fermenter of sufficient size. Kits and batches up to 23 liters have sufficient space in a 7.9 US gallon primary fermenter. For larger batches I use a larger container, e.g., I use 32 gallon Rubbermaid Brutes. Better too large than too small.

Even with careful racking, often a fine layer of sediment may be in the secondary, so I leave 1 to 2 bottles worth in the container. I hold the racking cane off the bottom of the secondary container and stop before draining it.

This last bit of wine is bottled last, and I mark the bottle (or 2) and consume them first. These are never gifted, as they may have a bit of sediment. The problem is cosmetic, so I have no problem drinking the wine, but I never gift it.

Test the wine to ensure it’s good. While it’s unlikely, bad things can happen, so make sure you want the wine before you bottle it. Proceed once the wine is verified.

Rack Any Additional Containers

If making kits, it’s likely the wine is in a single secondary container. If making anything from fresh fruit, it’s very possible there are other containers.

Rack each container into a separate bucket. Test it BEFORE adding to the main batch. I’ve had a few secondary containers of wine turn bad — adding it to the main batch ruins the entire batch.

If there is ANY doubt about the wine in separate containers, bottle it separately.

Once the wine(s) are verified, add to the main batch.

Add Glycerin (optional)

I add glycerin to all wines, which increases body and smooths flaws. Dosage is 1/4 to 1 US oz per gallon of wine, with my typical dosage being 1/2 to 2/3 oz per gallon.

Glycerin is thick, so I normally measure it in a sanitized measuring cup, then when the siphon is going, direct the siphon into the cup so the glycerin is diluted as it overflows the cup. I continue pointing the tubing into the cup to rinse it well.

During the racking I periodically stir at low power with a drill-mounted stirring rod.

Note: Although listed separately for completeness, the addition of glycerin and K-meta happen close together.

Add K-Meta

I normally sprinkle the K-meta powder in during the racking, so it gets a head start with being distributed. I stir at low power with a drill-mounted stirring rod during and after racking to ensure the K-meta is well distributed.

Normal dosage is 1/4 tsp per 19 to 23 liters of wine (5 to 6 US gallons). This is the last dose of K-meta the wine will receive, so I make sure it’s ready to last for potentially 5+ years.

Soapbox: Occasionally we get folks on WineMakingTalk who want to make wine without sulfite or “as naturally as possible”. Sulfite gets blamed for headaches, which is not medically proven, and VERY few people are allergic to it. Wine made without sulfite has a significantly shorter shelf life, so I recommend using a normal dosage.

Backsweetening (optional)

I prefer dry wines and the vast majority of my production is dry. Generally I backsweeten fruit wines and kit wines designed to be backsweetened. For me, this step is skipped 95% of the time.

There are many methods for backsweetening — I do it by taste to the entire batch at once. I’m aware of the risk of over-sweetening, but I’ve been doing this for decades and find it to be less risky than sweetening a test batch then calculating how much sugar to add to the full batch. I’ve had that go wrong.

Start by reserving a full glass of wine as a control. Then add a proper dose of sorbate (follow package instructions). NEVER forget the sorbate else corks will be blowing!

For 19 to 23 liter batches I get the wine moving with a drill-mounted stirring rod at low power. Typically one person runs the drill while another adds 1/4 cup sugar. After 30 seconds, change direction on the drill for 30 seconds. Draw a sample and taste test. If necessary, contrast against the control.

This process is repeated until I believe the wine needs just a bit more sugar. At that point I stop, as it’s far easier to add more sugar than it is to take some out.

Once done, stir the wine again for one minute, changing direction after 30 seconds.

Bottling

Move the wine to a counter. Add the filler tube to the siphon hose.

Line up 12 bottles — we bottle one case at a time. As each bottle is lined up on the floor, I visually inspect for any foreign material. If there is even a hint of foreign material, the bottle gets replaced. My cleaning process includes visual inspection, so it’s very rare to find a problem at this time.

Line up 12 corks on the previously sanitized counter.

Start the siphon in the first bottle, keeping in mind the filler tube must be triggered to allow wine to flow, else the siphon won’t start.

One person fills bottles while another corks using my ancient but totally reliable Italian floor corker. We keep damp paper towels handy to wipe up overflows and to wipe down the bottles. As each is corked, it goes into a waiting case.

Once the first case is filled, repeat with the next case, and keep doing it until all wine is bottled.

Don’t forget that the secondary containers may have wine left in them. This is siphoned, or more commonly, poured into a 2 gallon food grade bucket, along with any remaining wine from the primary batch that didn’t fill a bottle.

If the wine looks mostly clear, bottle it. If it’s muddy, it goes into a 750 ml or 1.5 liter bottle and is refrigerated for a week to clear, and then poured off and bottled.

Any drabs left are consumed.

Post Bottling

The bottles need to stand upright for a few days to let the pressure in the bottle equalize. Corking compresses the air in the bottle, and it bleeds out around the cork. If the bottle is on its side or upside down, this can push wine out, so standing upright avoids a mess.

I use Nomacorcs, so I can leave the bottles standing up. However, it’s engrained in me to lay bottles on their sides, so I do so.

My bottles all receive a label and capsule. Unless I’m able to do this within a few days OR if I’m bottling several batches, I use a Sharpie marker to make a mark on the cork to identify the wine, e.g., Sauvignon Blanc will have “SB” written on each cork. I do NOT trust my memory to ensure I know which wine is which.

In the last year I also started writing the wine on painters tape, and sticking that to the side or top of each case. When you have 5 batches of red wine all bottled within a week, memory works fine up until it’s wrong. Assume you will forget and mark things.